Aventures Bicyclétales ...

country overview, map and followed itinerary, the journal with the best pictures,    [chap 4] the highlight, what I liked / didn't like, useful information.
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Nepal overview (as of September 2008)

• Capital city : Katmandu.
• Area : ~ 147,180 km2 (= 0.2 x France).
• Population : ~ 26.6 million inhabitants (= 0.4 x France).
• Density : 181 inhabitants / km2. 

• Language : Nepalese and English.
• Religions : Hinduism (81%), Buddhism (10%) and Islam (4%).
• Human Development Index (HDI) : 0.527, the 138th country out of 177. What is HDI ?

• Government : Federal Democratic Republic.
• Former King forced to step down : Gyanendra Bir Bikram Shah Dev (from June 2001 to May 2008).
• President : Ram Baran Yadav (since July 2008).
• Prime minister : Pushpa Kamal Dahal aka Prachanda "the fierce one" (since August 2008). He is also the Chairman of the Maoist Communist party of Nepal.

• Growth rate in 2005 : 1.9%.
• Currency : Nepalese Roupee (NPR), 1 Euro = ~ 100 Rupees.
• Main imports : oil, machines, cars, electrical equipment, communication equipment, chemicals and drugs.
• Main exports : carpets, garment, herbs and therapeutic oils, pashmina and jute.

Nepal map and followed itinerary (in green)




The travel journal in Nepal with the best pictures

• First steps in Nepal,
• Katmandu,
• Towards Pokhara and the Anapurnas,
• Pokhara,
• Lumbini,
• The Western Terai and Bardia National Park.

Thursday the 2nd of October (continued from Tibet) : 2.15 PM, I just crossed the Chinese border and I am now riding in the 8 km no man’s land separating China from Nepal.

I arrive half an hour later in Kodari, and I discover chaos over there, wild true chaos : people everywhere, parcels, containers, cows, trucks, garbage … it’s overwhelming. I can barely make my way through all of this.

Soldiers watch the crowd and the mess from the side of the road, totally helpless … I try to locate the immigration office, in vain, I am always told to keep moving down the road … and I finally walk pass in front without seeing it. Somebody then yell at me, fortunately, and I get back there. Everything is fine, I get my stamp and I am good to go. Back in the street, it's packed, I am moving one step at a time behind a couple of trucks trying to extract themselves from the city … and it starts raining … nice … I really did not imagine my first few moments in Nepal would be this way … When finally I get a clear road, out of the border town, I look back and this is all I can see (picture on the right) : a stream and some mountains. I plan to sleep in Barahabise tonight, the first city on the way to Katmandu. There is only 30 km left, but the road is bad and parts have been washed out by massive landslides. I ride slowly, there is no hurry. This new environment reminds me of Thailand : the heat, the humidity, the rice paddies … and the riding on the “other” side of the road.

Friday the 3rd of October : I plan to reach Katmandu today, the Nepalese capital city is only 88 km away and the road is supposed to go down, so this should be easy.

Well, it did not really happen this way … after 4 km only, a landslide and some sticky mud had trapped a minivan right in the middle of the road. This is clearly not rideable, I have to carry the bike and go around it. 6 km later, new obstacle, the traffic is completely stalled into a small town …



If it continues like this, I will never get to Katmandu today ! And the supposed downhill was a hoax, it’s now one way up … with a climb of more than a 1,000 m in the heat.



At 4.30 PM, the town of Dhulikhel signals the end of the climb, the sun is low in the sky and Katmandu is still 30 km away. The road is flat now, but the heavy traffic, the rocks, the holes and the dust makes it a real ordeal to ride on. I can’t wait to get to a guesthouse tonight.

When I arrive in Katmandu, it’s getting dark and orientation is a real challenge. I go round and round without finding the way. In some parts of town, the crowd has taken the streets and celebrates the Dasain festival, the most important of all festivals in Nepal. The traffic is a mess, it is total anarchy in the streets, and apparently there is an electricity blackout going on. All is dark around ...

An hour later, I eventually find my way and a room in a guesthouse … at last ...


Saturday the 4th of October – Thursday the 16th of October : I will stay in Katmandu for a while, this will be my first real stop since I left Bangkok three months ago …


Katmandu is a big city, and with about a million inhabitants, it’s virtually the only city of the country.

Describing Katmandu is a difficult task, it’s hard to know where to begin with. Katmandu is a sensorial overwhelming experience. It’s as much a joy as an ordeal. 



People density is what strikes first, then there are the narrow roads with their tiny buildings packed along each other, bicycles, rickshaws, motorbikes, taxis and all the honking that comes with them, there are cows, goats, mountains of garbage, street shops, temples, … it's a never ending list.



There are also numerous shrines with Hindu gods to pay respect to.



Above on the right, it’s Ganesh, the Hindu God of prosperity and wisdom.

Below on the left, in front of a Hindu temple … and on the right, a bicycle used as a fruits and vegetables stall.



Below on the left, a bicycle repair shop … and on the right, a rickshaw rider taking an afternoon nap.

Political situation in Nepal : this was THE big surprise when I arrived in Nepal. After having spent several weeks witnessing first hand the extent of the damages Mao had inflicted to Tibet and China, I was not expecting to find a Maoist Prime Minister democratically elected in Nepal !! This is new, this dates back to August this year : Pushpa Kamal Dahal aka Prachanda "the fierce one" then became the new Prime Minister of Nepal. Up to now at least, most agree with the fact that he did not do a worse job than any of his predecessors, and his election finally brought an end to the Maoist guerilla activities, thus restored peace in the whole country.

Cultural heritage : the Katmandu valley is rich of numerous architectural treasures dating back from the XVII and XVIII century. At that time, the rivalry between the three kingdoms of the valley (Katmandu, Bhaktapur and Patan) found its expression in the arts and culture, which flourished in the competitive climate. The outstanding collections of temples and buildings in each city’s Durbar (Palace) Square are testament to the huge amounts of money spent by the rulers to outdo each other.

Below, Katmandu’s Durbar square ...






Below, Bhaktapur's Durbar square ...





... with its famous Nyatapola temple (below on the right), 30 m high and highest temple of Nepal.




Below, Patan's Durbar square ...




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Below, the Buddhist monastery of Bodhnath, the main religious site of the Tibetan community in exile in Nepal.




And below, the last temple I visited in Katmandu, the Swayambhunath Buddhist temple, on the top of a hill west of the city …



… from where there are great views of Katmandu … and its grey cloud of pollution !



In just a few days, the pollution is such, that I successfully (re)developed most of the symptoms inherent to polluted cities : cough, sneezing, allergy, irritated eyes, etc … it’s now time for me to go !


Friday the 17th of October : I leave Katmandu at 7.00 AM this morning … I haven’t cycled for a while, so I plan on going easy … easy … but unfortunately the road goes up ... and up … and up again.



Above on the right, a moving bush …

The road I ride on today is the main road of the country, it connects Katmandu to Pokhara. The traffic is not too heavy, but the driving habits of the truck and bus drivers are beyond understanding. It seems like they are aiming at maximizing their chance to die today and kill at the same time a maximum of people. This is by far the worst driving I have witnessed since I left Bangkok.




As time goes, I realize today will be a day longer than expected. It’s 4.00 PM, I have cycled 120 km since I left Katmandu, but Bandipur -where I plan to stay overnight- is still 20 km away.



At 5.00 PM, I reach the Bandipur junction. The village is now only 8 km away … but, and this is an important information I missed earlier, it is also 600 m higher !

The climb starts immediately ; the gradient is about 7 to 8% … and rise occasionally up to 12%. I haven’t seen such slopes since Vietnam. I am forced to make regular stops, but given the sights around, who would complain ? The sun sets slowly on the Himalaya range, there is no traffic, the sky is clear, there is no wind … and I have plenty of time, with lots of things to enjoy, so why would I rush ?



Around 6.00 PM, the night has come … and there are still 4 km to go before Bandipur, 4 long kilometers in the dark, with the stars shining in the sky and a deep peaceful silence all around …


Saturday the 18th of October : Welcome to Bandipur !



Bandipur is a quiet well preserved village sitting on the top of a mountain … and it enjoys breathtaking sceneries of the Himalaya from wherever you stand.

 

Above, some traditional houses made of stones and/or bricks.

Below, a temple in the middle of the forest.




Sunday the 19th of October : this morning I leave Bandipur for Pokhara.




Monday the 20th of October : I stop for a few days in Pokhara.

Pokhara is a small town with a truly exceptional environment : the Phewal Tal lake lies on its western side and on the north, on the north … the Annapurna Range stands high in the sky !!



Above, the Annapurna mountain is on the left (8 091 m) but it’s Machhapuchhare, on the right, which dominates the skyline (6 997 m). It’s actually one of the smaller peaks of the Annapurna range, but it looks taller as it is closer.

Below, sunset in the Pokhara valley ...




Since I had some free time in Pokhara, I read the local newspapers … and here are a few headlines :

• Maoist PM went to New York last week for a UN meeting. He confessed the “Maoist” word may be dropped soon.
• Financial crisis : Nepal consider itself too poor to face a direct impact. However, indirect impact may be felt through reduced tourists spending and less aid donations coming from developed countries.
• The garbage treatment facility of Sindhuli will be full in three weeks. There is no solution in sight, besides dumping the garbage in the river at it used to be the practice before …
• Should the government continue to sponsor animal sacrifices during the Dasain festival ?
• A plane crash in Lukla killed 18 persons, among which 16 foreigners. In average, there is one such crash in Nepal every year. Carelessness is usually to blame …
• Thai airways will increase its number of flights between Bangkok and Katmandu from 7 to 10 per week.
• A team of Japanese scientists spent 20 days in the Himalaya tracking down the Yeti. The expedition was not successful, but several motion cameras have been installed. The team will come back in two months …
  

Saturday the 25th of October : I leave this morning in the direction of Tansen, heading south towards the flat lands of Nepal named Terai … the day should be fairly easy, all downhill I assume …



Well, I could not have assumed more wrongly, with 130 km and 2,100 m of climbing, this day is the second more challenging day since I left Bangkok … and once more, it’s dark when I stop riding.


Sunday the 26th of October : Tansen is a medieval hill town, perched high above the Kali Gandaki River. The narrow, winiding streets are full of traditional shop-houses and temples … and most of the centre is too steep for cars, which all adds to Tansen’s charm.




Below, the market on Sitalpati square ...



Below on the left, women coming back from the market … and on the right, a group of kids posing for a picture they requested.

Monday the 27th of October : I leave Tansen early morning and I hope today is the day there will be no more 10% slopes to climb … After a few hundred meters out of town, a sign (on the right) is pretty clear about the fact it will go down from now on … at last !! And it went down indeed, for 40 km, all the way to Butwal, where I ride now only 200 m above sea level.

Tuesday the 28th of October : from the Lumpini Park in Bangkok to Lumbini town in Nepal, I cycled 7,300 km through six countries in just four months.

Lumpini or Lumbini, depending on the transcription method used, is the historical birthplace of Gautama Siddhartha Buddha. The man who would later achieve enlightenment under a Bodhi tree, inspiring a global philosophy of peace and reflection, was born in Lumbini in the month of May in 563 BC. Excavations have revealed a succession of ruins on the site dating back at least 2,200 years, they are protected by a plain red brick pavilion named after the name of the mother of Buddha : Maya Devi (picture below, with a group of Thai pilgrims facing it).




Despite the Buddha’s rejection of divinity and materialism, all the sites associated with his life have become centres for pilgrimage and the Buddha himself is now worshipped as a deity. Lumbini is no exception. Buddhist nations from around the world have constructed monasteries and temples around his birthplace. Each reflects the unique interpretation of Buddhism of its home nation.

Below on the left, the Manang Samaj Gompa, a Tibetan style stupa constructed by Buddhists from northern Nepal … and on the right, a Nepali style stupa under construction with the Korean temple in the background.



Below on the left, the Korean Temple, a huge massive concrete block not finished yet … and on the right, facing it, the Zhong Hua Chinese monastery.



Below, the Vietnam Phat Quoc Tu Temple …



Below on the left, the new Linh Son monastery, from France … and on the right, another Tibetan monastery under construction.



Below, the great Drigung Kagyud Lotus Stupa was constructed by the German Tara Foundation.

On the right, here is the Myanmar Golden Temple, one of the oldest structures in the compound. Its huge gilded stupa was inspired by the Paya Shwedagon of Yangon. Finally here, below, is the Royal Thai Buddhist temple, an imposing wat built from gleaming white marble ... ... and seeing this kind of temple here with Thai monks around in their orange robe feels somehow like being back where I started !!

Below, sunset over the temples and monasteries of Lumbini …




Wednesday the 29th of October : I am heading west this morning, sun rises in my back ; all is well, as it should be … but as I come out of Lumbini town, I admit being rather surprised to see a Mosque … and a church next to it !! In just a few hundred meters, the complexity and the diversity of our world could not be better demonstrated : a Buddhist pilgrimage site, on a Hindu land, next to a Muslim and Catholic building !


I was expecting the Terai to be an arid plain … but actually it is quite green, with lots of rice paddies and lots of cows, some with really funny horns (see below).
 


I make a small stop en route at Tilaurakot, the historical site of Kapilavastu, where Buddha spent the first 29 years of his life. It is still possible to see the foundations of a large residential compound and the remains of the city walls. However, the ruins have degraded over the centuries and it takes a certain amount of imagination to visualize the city of extravagant luxury that drove the Buddha to question the nature of existence …

Getting back on the bicycle, I am stopped shortly after by a river, with water, but lacking the presence of a bridge to go over it. And it looks deep, about mid-thigh !



I am not going to ride it, there is nothing worse than immerging a bicycle and its bearings in sandy water ! I disassemble my bags from the bicycle and I plan to cross the river two or three times by carrying them all above water … but as I put the bicycle on my shoulder, four Nepalese who were observing me for a while, grab my bags and cross the river with me. Really nice, thanks !!

A little bit further, I take my lunch in a typical road-side restaurant (picture below) built exclusively from wood and soil. It’s a construction method which is also widely used for houses and farm buildings all over Nepal.



The road is really pleasant, it goes through a forest and motorized traffic is minimal. It helps to relax and chat with other fellow cyclists, riding side by side without taking the risk of being flattened by a mad truck every 5 minutes.

When I arrive in Chanauta, Tihar festival is in its fourth day. Small groups of dancers go from one house to another and perform in front of the local crowd.

I stop nearby in a small shop to buy refreshments and a group of dancers quickly makes a move in front of that same shop. Dancers turn and turn with real talent, but for two songs only … and then the music stops, everybody looks at me, and I am asked to make a donation. There are 30 people watching, but it’s me who has to pay, only me, well, why not … I give what I want, this is a donation, so I give 100 Rupees, which is quite a lot in Nepal, it represents two or three meals. But I am told that 100 Rupees is not enough, it should 200 to 300 Rupees. I hate this kind of situation, this is pure extortion, but I don’t really have a choice unless I make scene, which is not really in my habits. I give 200 Rupees … but it still isn’t enough, that must be 300 Rupees. Oh God, I really hate that, I give the 300 Rupees and I get back on my bike, totally disillusioned.



In this country, I really too often had the impression of being just a cycling wallet, in which everybody is entitled to help himself without even having to say thanks. It’s really annoying and unfortunately, it made me suspicious of everybody getting too near.

Coming back to Tihar, this festival honors certain animals, starting with offerings of rice to the crows which are sent by Yama, the God of death, as his “messengers of Death”. On the second day, dogs are honored with tikas (third painted eye) and garlands of flowers; in the afterworld it is dogs who guide departed souls across the river of the dead. On the third and fourth day, cows and bullocks are honored (see above on the right how it looks).

The end of the day is long and slow, I am not feeling too well and energy is low, Nepalese food is just not working for me !


Thursday the 30th of October : the road is really quiet, this is a real pleasure to ride it. Most people go by foot, women carry baskets on their heads (below on the left), kids play, cows walk by, men cycle … there is no noise, no engine, except the very rare Jeep-Bus (below on the right) which, as the number of people on it indicates, does not pass by very often.




Below, a farmhouse made of soil in the middle of a yellow field, with its mini-door decorated for Tihar.



I finish the day on the verge of agony. I haven’t eaten anything today, my stomach still does not feel better and fever is rising up … it just keeps getting better and better ! I cut short my riding and stop in the small village of Kusun. There is no hotel, but a nice old lady offers me to sleep in a spare-room in her house … and this was all I needed.

I take a bit of plain rice for diner and go to bed at 7.30 PM !!


Friday the 31st of October : what a night it was last night ! What a night !! I quickly fell asleep yesterday evening … but only to wake up a few hours later, with fever, headache, sore muscles and with multiple loud noises coming from outside, ranging from drums music, kids screams and firecrackers explosions. It felt as if it had been non-stop all night, and as a matter of fact, it does not really look over this morning.

Not the most relaxing night I ever had, but sufficient to kill the fever at least. Unfortunately my stomach is still not very keen on seeing food, so I skip breakfast and go …

This is my third day on a super-light diet, I won’t be able to go on very long like this … so I shorten my riding distance once more : today will be less than 60 km. On the way, some monkeys play along the road and this is a helpful distraction. Kilometers go by slowly, but I eventually arrive in Kohalpur. I am pleased to learn there that Mahendranagar (the most western border point with India) is not 280 km away as indicated on my map, but only 210 km !! Given the circumstances, I am quite happy to cut out those 70 km …


Saturday the 1st of November : I feel better this morning, and feel like having apples and oranges for breakfast. At last, things seem to be back in motion in there. This is good news.

I am going to Bardia National Park today. The road could not be more flat, I barely need to push on the pedals. Even before getting to the park, I see a few crocodiles on the banks of a river … and fortunately, here there is a bridge to go over it !! Few kilometers later, I leave the main road, turn left onto a dirt road, ride through a crocodile-free shallow river and continue another 10 km to the National Park headquarters. There are some small villages along the road and at that time of the day, villagers come back from the fields.





When I arrive to the Park, I choose the nearest Guesthouse, right in front of a military camp. As the evening goes and while discussing with the owner of the place, I learn that being too close to an army camp is not that a good location. Just a few years ago, when Maoist rebels attacked the army camp, the guesthouse was right in the middle of the fire line, and received bullets from both sides for one full night !!


Sunday the 2nd and Monday the 3rd of November : my appetite is back and energy is now flowing again. I have recovered … and I am ready to take some good walks in the Park, looking for Elephants, Rhinos and Bengal Tigers !!

Above on the right, Shiba, a semi-domestic Rhino … who feels good being taken care of by the rangers of the Park, and who refuses to go back in the wild where other Rhinos give him too much of a hard time. Wildlife in Bardia is very rich, and easily spotted, especially next to river banks. I saw a wild Rhino, three different species of deer (Tigers need some fresh meat), grey langur monkeys (on the right), eagles, perrots, a king cobra, a wild boar … but no Tiger, and maybe it is better that way. n

But Tigers are definitely roaming around here, no doubt about it, their footprints can be seen in many places (above on the right)

Below, the sun sets on Bardia.




Tuesday the 4th and Wednesday the 5th of November : back on the road, I am heading towards the western end of Nepal and its border with India. I ride the last 155 km in two days, and tomorrow, I will continue my trip in India …



The highlight in Nepal

Well, not quite a highlight actually, but something I kept thinking about for my whole time in Nepal. Maybe because I imagined Nepal as a tourist Eldorado, I really underestimated the poor living conditions of the people living in this country. It has been a shock when I crossed the border, and it did not really ease along the way. It seems as if the money from the UN and the many NGOs working here can’t deliver any real long lasting improvements. Nepal is lacking of everything. Previous governments have failed to capitalize on the aid money and problems have kept growing with time, as did the population, to a point which may soon prove to be unsustainable. There are some very serious issues to be taken care of here, and if local leaders fail once more to address them, the country is heading for disaster … I really hope to be proved wrong …




What I liked / didn't like in Nepal

I liked	I did not like
sunrise over the Anapurnas	dust : everywhere, all the time
cultural heritage in and around Katmandu	pollution and dirtiness in Katmandu
traditonal and colorful women outfits	Katmandu pigeons over my shoulder ... guess why !
small medieval hill-top villages	suicidal driving habits of bus and truck drivers
good overall English skills of the population ... once you pick up the speedy pace and the unusual accent	the noisy sky of Katmandu and Pokhara : there is always a plane or an helicopter in the air. It is annoying …
massive use of rickshaws and bicycles in Terai	street shop owners who refuse to let you go if you don't buy something, anything ...
daily electrical blackouts at dusk … so that everybody can enjoy watching the stars in the sky ...	exaggerated over-inflated prices for foreigners
trees : huge, magnificent, preserved and protected	kids running around my bike and asking for money. 10, 20 or 30 times a day, it's too much ...
the recent cease-fire between the government and the Maoist guerilla	people chasing tourists for their hotel, trek or whatever reason ... they are too many and too pushy
Bardia National Park ... its Rhinos and Bengal tigers	low door ways … multiple bumps on the head guaranteed !

Useful information about Nepal