Aventures Bicyclétales ...

country overview, map and followed itinerary, the journal with the best pictures, the low point, what I liked / didn't like, useful information.
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Country overview (as of April 2009)

• Capital city : Tirana.
• Area : 28,748 km2 (= 0.04 x France).
• Population : ~ 3.1 million inhabitants (= 0.05 x France).
• Density : 108 inhabitants / km2. 

• Language : Albanian.
• Religions : Islam (65%), Orthodox (20%) and Catholicism (10%).
• Human Development Index (HDI) : 0.807, the 69th country out of 177. What is HDI ?

• Government : Parliamentary Republic.
• President : Bamir Topi (since July 2007).
• Prime minister : Sali Berisha (since April 2007).

• Growth rate in 2006 : 5%.
• Currency : Lek (ALL), 1 Euro = ~ 130 Lek.
• Main imports : electric equipment, oil and vehicles.
• Main exports : garment, shoes and hosiery.

Albania map and followed itinerary (in green)


The travel journal in Albania with the best pictures

Wednesday the 22nd of April : it's noon when I cross the border between Greece and Albania. Welcome to the Land of the Eagle … in one of the most mysterious corner of Europe !!

Albania was a closed communist country until 1990, but caught world attention that year as the last domino to tumble in Eastern Europe’s sudden series of democratic revolutions. Albania chose a curious form of isolation, with everything centered on the Stalinist rule and personality cult of Enver Hoxha, Albania’s dictator from 1944 to his death in 1985.



Albanians have been very keen to remove all traces of their communist years, but there is one thing they haven’t been able to get rid of, it’s the 750,000 igloo-shaped concrete bunkers scattered all over the country (see above on the right). Those are a reminder of Hoxha self-reliant defense policy of the 60’s, when Albania withdrew from the Warsaw Pact.

After a few kilometers only on the Albanian roads, I notice that an overwhelming majority of the cars are actually Benz from the 80’s and 90’s, which is neither particularly cost nor environmental conscious. Those old cars smoke far too much and climb mountains with great difficulties, although still at a faster pace than I do.



I chose to rejoin the Adriatic coast, and I am riding west through wild mountains. The road is actually OK, and the natural environment looks pretty well preserved. This is promising and I imagine already the small fishermen village I will soon discover on the coast … this is until I arrive in Saranda ! And Saranda is a shock, the “village” I was expecting is actually a resort-town under construction, with skeleton buildings as far as the eyes can see, giant billboards, casinos, dust, mud, sewage and garbage ! Hell made true ...


Thursday the 23rd of April : I am more than happy to leave Saranda this morning, and I head straight north along the coast … meeting on the way with a few shepherds and their flock !



I also ride through some small traditional villages with houses usually bearing a puppet or a teddy bear on the front wall … as it is supposed to bring good luck !



The road –under construction- undulates a lot, rising from sea level to a pass at 300 or 400m, then back to sea level, and back up again, and again … but the coastal views are pretty scenic and are well worth a bit of hard work.



Below : in the village of Vuno.



Tonight I stop right at the foot of the intimidating Logarasë … the highest pass of the area, well above 1,000m, and which hairpins directly face the sea. Fortunately the lucky teddy bear is here (below) and will look after me, making sure I get a good rest before tomorrow's climb …




Friday the 24th of April : as planned, I start the day with a 15 km climb, enjoying after each hairpin an ever more dramatic view over the sea and the surrounding mountains.



The last few kilometers before the top are covered with clouds … and so is the start of the downhill leading me straight back to sea level in just a few minutes.



This mountain range also symbolizes the end of the Greek cultural influence and the start of the Italian's. It certainly isn’t a coincidence if today I heard some « forza, forza » and also a « Eh, Pantani » in reference to the ex Italian cycling champion …

Below, seen in Vlorë, the fifth largest Albanian city with 90,000 inhabitants ... an advertisement for the local subsidiary of a French Bank. No comment … and on the right, an Albanian made tricycle.



Below : between Vlorë and Fier, vineyards making Albania a very good wine producing country.



Below : the mosque and the Orthodox church of Fier.






Saturday the 25th of April : I leave Fier this morning for the seaside-town of Durrës ... but unfortunately the only road connecting both cities is an « Autostrada » as the Albanians call it (a highway). Whatever, this is Albania I am told, and bicycles can use an « Autostrada » ! Yes they can, but watch out for the donkies, the pedestrians and wrong way traffic of all sorts !! Below, along the highway.




Wednesday the 26th and Monday the 27th of April : with nearly 200,000 inhabitants, Durrës is the second largest Albanian city after the capital Tirana. It’s an ancient city with several Roman ruins and Byzantine fortifications standing at the foot of oversized hotels and abandonned condominiums.

Below : the promenade along the seafront ...







Durrës has quite a unique atmosphere; it’s a mix of old and new buildings at every corner …



And size does matter, or at least it’s what the “new-rich of Albania” seems to believe. The bigger the better, applied with great zeal to the cars …



Big cars, casinos, bet bars (where you can bet on absolutely everything) and all those people showing off … it really feels like being trapped in a bad Mafiosi movie !


Tuesday the 28th of April : I get back on the bike for a flat easy leg until Shkodër (120 km). The sky is grey, the sea is rough but it does not rain, just not yet … but it’s clearly coming.

Below : the Rozafa Fortress of Shkodër.



When I arrive in Shkodër … I actually discover a pleasant city, at last !! There are some very well restored old buildings, without graffiti, broken window or falling wall. There aren’t any garbage either, and there is even a charming pedestrian walking street !




Wednesday the 29th of April : my journey in Albania ends today, after a little less than 500 km in just a week. Next on my route is Montenegro …




The low point in Albania

After 45 years of Stalinian communism, equality for all and a Benz for each … the collapse of communism has had the same consequences here as elsewhere, it brought anarchy together with the most vile form of capitalism : materialism to the extreme for the happy few and about nothing for the others ...




What I liked / didn't like in Albania  

I liked	I did not like
coastal scenic views in the south	buildings under construction or about to collapse, both not likely to look better anytime soon
wild mountains	cities in general : bleak, dirty and without style
quality red wines	garbage mountains
the city of Shkodër	the countrywide competition about who is going to have the biggest car

Useful information about Albania :